Golfadelphia

6,509 yards, 130 slope from the White tees

One gets contemplative when walking along a beautiful landscape such as the West Links. As I was doing so that early Spring day, I thought of all those hundreds of years golf had been played on these grounds. What the people back then thought about as they gazed over West Bay and the rock formations just off the coast. If they found the same virtues of the game as we do now. We tend to revere and glorify history (as we likely hope the future will do of all of us when the time comes) so we think of those before us had a better, perhaps more respectful hold of the game. The wind here has a way of undressing the golfer where he stands. All layers and cloths the golfer may have to combat those gusts are ineffectual as the wind cuts through them and the piercing cold does its job of informing any and all they are subject to its fickle brutality. If we think further back as I was trying to do, back to when there was no golf course here, it all makes perfect sense. The people back then had the same depth, sense of adventure and yes, sense of humor that we do today. They saw the land as it is. Terribly perfect land for our game. To both delight the golfer and yes, drive him to madness.

One of the things I was thinking about between the many many shots I faced that day was how. How was this land even available or open to place a golf course upon it. Like I saw at St. Andrews a couple days before, the town almost overflows up to the course yet the acres near the coast are untouched. This almost doubles at North Berwick, where there is a thinner line between town and golf course, leaving only a small strip next to the Eighteenth for parking. All of those cars are well in play on the Eighteenth and if one doesn’t get to the course early enough, I’m not sure where they park when all those spaces on that thin strip are full. The question remains, however, how was the land for the golf course spared from the same labyrinth of stone and streets and structures randomly interweaving within itself as the rest of it? We learn of Scotland and their sense of the game with the answer.

Land was granted by the Crown starting some where roughly in the Twelfth century. Burghs were created at that point and within these royal charters, there was some land designated as common good land that belonged to the community rather than individuals. This land was reserved for things like animal grazing, resource gathering and public recreation. Some would call it fate but a lot of this common good land was at the sandy coasts because it was unsuitable for farming. Its beauty and refuge was likely appreciated as much back then as it is now, so it made sense to reserve such land for public enjoyment, especially since it was seen as not all that valuable. Alas, such land belonged to the public and remained open and undeveloped. Eventually, golf would make its way upon it. When one thinks about it, the early origins of golf were due to these common good land designations. Without them, the towns would have spilled right up to the coast lines and we can never be sure the game would have developed and caught on like it did. This is why St. Andrews is closed for golf on Sundays. The public is allowed to use the land as it would like, for picnicking, kiting, walking or whatever. This is why there are walkers along the trails even during golf. This was the same at North Berwick. I believe there was some kind of holiday the day of my rounds and it was unseasonably warm, so many made their way to the beach and were walking along the coast line as we golfed our rounds. The people and community comprise the experience as opposed to being insulated from it as is usually the case in the U.S. To be fair, however, California has public enjoyment of the coast regulations and even golf courses must maintain trails for the public to traverse and enjoy the beauty it beholds.

Golf is one of several ways to enjoy the land. It is engaging interaction that I find much more deeply fulfilling than simply walking or gazing upon it. For the Scots, such enjoyment of the land is virtually a birthright. In turn, golf over here is not seen so much as a privilege of luxury as it is a right woven into their societal DNA. Indeed, the land was likely used for all kinds of early forms of golf before any actual golf holes actually came about. All of this early golf finally culminated with the West Links at North Berwick beginning in 1832 when six holes were laid out on its rumpled dunes. The holes would go out and back where the existing Third through Sixteenth reside and could be played in either direction. This land is known as the, “March Dyke” and the stone wall one walks through early on in the round marks it. In 1868, club member the Right Hon. John Nisbet-Hamilton allowed his land to be used west of the March Dyke for an additional three holes. One of these additional holes was the famous Redan than now greets the golfer on the back nine. The club now had nine holes. And so it was until 1877 when our man Nisbet-Hamilton and his family once again helped out by allowing more of their land west to become golf holes, which extended to the Eli Burn. The club now enjoyed eighteen holes, albeit rather short. In 1895, however, the course was lengthened to 6,095 yards. This layout was eventually altered to what the golfer comes across present day in 1932, overseen by club professional Ben Sayers. Other than some changes or additions to bunkering and lengthening to its present 6,509 yards, the course has remained the same.

The course itself is not attributable to any particular architect. Rather, it was designed through perpetual evolution of natural forces and those who golfed upon it. We have seen plenty of examples of golf courses benefitting from an architect spending long periods of time essentially sharpening the course as it matures. Here, the players themselves would provide such attention and care. One of the things I thought about as I walked the fairways were the discussions held when deciding to change the course one way or another. “We should tee off over that ridge, the ball will roll into that valley or even near the green if hit long enough.” “But the shot is completely blind, no one will have any idea where their ball goes and if it goes to the right at all, it can hit golfers coming the other way.” “Part of this game is keeping your head on a swivel, Angus. If one of us gets struck by a wayward shot, that’s our problem. As far as not seeing anything from the tee, all the more reason. One should know the land and know where their ball goes. They shouldn’t have to see it.” Indeed, the course has plenty of quirk of the strategic variety. Blind shots, hitting on to or over jutty mounds, considering and then risking a shot relying on the randomness of roll, trying to figure out how on earth your shot will stay on the green; it is all part of the course imparting a fun sense of adventure. Gil Hanse and Jim Wagner were retained last year as the club’s official architects. Their work still start this year but will focus more on elevating what is already in place as opposed to making changes. I believe the term being used for the work is, “minor refinements” yet will include developing a master plan for the club. The course is currently ranked #25 in Golf Magazine’s Top 100 Courses in the World and #10 in Golfweek’s Top 50 Courses in Great Britain/Ireland.

One experiences North Berwick more than one plays it. The pro shop rests in a hollow in the middle of the playing grounds, between the First and Eighteenth. Walking from the clubhouse to the pro shop or even First tee subjects the golfer to the fully exposed underbelly of the natural surrounds, the wind tugging the golfer this way and that to get them in the right frame of mind from the get go, yet the beauty of the jagged coast slams the senses of the golfer just as abruptly. We were fortunate to have one of the first tee times. Early mornings on the beach are the world’s cheat code. There’s a prevalent calm leading up to the sea which punctuates the waves in soothing rhythm, as if the coast is an enormous sleeping giant breathing in and out. The course was empty, the sun shining on its corridors and pointed dunes and rocks. The wind was up and against going out and to our backs coming in. The golfer comes upon features and holes he has never encountered during his travels. Then, he needs to figure out how best to advance their golf ball through it. It is easy to imagine there are those who are still trying to figure it out after going around countless times. Craggy randomness and blind shots, fairness no consideration. It represents a lot of why I love this game. There is grace, and quirk, some unrelenting and some comedy. It is one of the purer rounds one can find, where the golfer must concern himself first and foremost with inventiveness while doing their best to guess the mood of the terrain. All among tremendous beauty. And yes, among the people at large. The serene morning quiet slowly gave way to a more socially lively scene. Casual conversation carried as those beachgoers and walkers picnicked, waded into the water or kicked their footballs about. Those on the walking trails and those at the beach were unfortunately exposed to my millions of swings and thrashes as my ball dribbled relatively motionless as if full of lead. That sense of community spoken about as a value in our game is very much alive and well at North Berwick and their presence helped assuage the reality my golf swing went back to Philadelphia without me. There is timeless quirk and unabashed use of the unique coastland one needs to study, learn and become friends with. The greens are notable for their movement and inaccessibility from certain angles, again urging the golfer time and knowledge are sorely needed to understand. Those in search of soulful golf or those in search of why we speak of this game in sacred, poetic lore should make their way to North Berwick.

I grew up as a runner and always pushed myself with training. There were times, however, where my body would physically revolt and declare in its own way, “enough.” I would try to swing my arms and quicken my stride but my body simply would not respond and it was at that point I would understand it was time to rest. The same happened that day at North Berwick as my body revolted. I didn’t feel physically tired but there was a subconscious protest, a call to rest. It’s not as bad as I make it out but there were certainly some loose shots. It really didn’t matter. I was able to keep my head up and appreciate the now. Appreciate the history and beauty of the place. Appreciate the song of the soul that marches merrily along these hallowed grounds that remains with me to this day.

The First is a 342 yard par 4 (from the White tees). “Point Garry (out).” The coast is to our right and will remain there for the first nine. The small bluff grabs the golfer’s attention from the opening tee and even from there, its left to right movement towards the sea is evident. That should be all the golfer needs to know. His tee shot should strive for a bit right and short of the bluff. Those who want to go longer may do so up the left but then face a green moving away from them for their second. The beach is very much in play as I was able to walk among the beachgoers to plod at my ball during our afternoon round. The approach will be blind up to the perched green. This green is the largest on the course. It used to share duties with the Seventeenth, when Bernard Darwin described it as a, “terrible place where the green slopes away to the rocks and beach.” The views are mesmerizing from it but yes, the green has its way of taunting.

The Second is a 433 yard par 4. “Sea.” The fairway bends to the right around the coast and the golfer needs to determine how much of the beach to carry off the tee. If the ball wanders on to the beach, hit it where it lies. Yes, the Cape hole was very likely inspired here. It certainly evokes the strategy that the template has been made famous for. With the wind gusting against as it was for me, the left side becomes much more appealing but just know the further left ones goes, the more the green disappears for the approach. The green blends in to the landscape and counterintuitively moves inland as well as front to back. This hole is a great example of a handful that may appear straightforward at first blush but only those with the pang of experience know better.

The Third is a 459 yard par 4. “Trap.” The coast begins to rise up from the beach and there is more room between it and the fairway. A long par 4 in its own right, the wind against makes it an absolute bear. While the first two holes are a brilliant opening duo, the Third is to let the golfer know it is not fucking around. The March Dyke wall is in the distance and must be accounted for on the tee when the wind is with. When the wind is against, the golfer is likely facing a long approach that must carry the wall early on. There is about 140 yards from the wall to the green. Once over the wall, the fairway and green seamlessly flow together and the golfer is invited to proceed any old way he wishes. While it may appear benign, the green is anything but. The randomness of its hollows and leans trouble the golfer most of the time without his knowing it.

The Fourth is a 177 yard par 3. “Carlekemp.” The figure 8 of the routing is here, as we walk across to the other side and move up the left side until we start the back and do the same in reverse. If one looks left as he is walking from the Third green to the tee here, he will see the Wee course, a nine hole par 3 meant for children, beginners and families. One needs to look beyond the legendary Redan green to see it and is closer to it on the way in. Here, the first par 3 starts off an all world collection of them. The green has two tiers and runs from front to back. It is also narrow yet deep and there are scant places desirable to miss off the green except for short left. There is a little shelter from the wind and if one needs to decide which bunker is the better to end up in, it is the one on the left.

The Fifth is a 372 yard par 4. “Bunkershill.” The fairway opens up a good deal off the tee after the tree line moves off on the left. There are a few well places bunkers that need to be avoided but otherwise the golfer is trying to get to the more downhill portion of the fairway. The downhill leads right into the green and save for a nasty little bunker at the front left corner, is wide open for the golfer to use the terrain as he sees fit. While the approach feels like a bit of a refresher, the tee shot is stiffer in getting the angle to the fairway correct and possibly underestimating the wind since it is tougher to feel at the teeing grounds.

The Sixth is a 161 yard par 3. “Quarry.” The hole is rather straightforward in what needs to be done. Carry the gigantic quarry before the green or you will be in a world of shit. This is good of a time as any to address the wind. We faced it against on the front and with on the back. The prevailing wind, however is the opposite. Helping on the front and against on the back. There are advantages either way. Here, the wind against is disadvantageous. The stated yardage is 161 but playing for 200 is not out of the question. It is possible to recover out of the quarry but the heavy matted over rough and gigantic pot bunker well below the green do not make it easy. By the way, bunkers circle most of the green so the challenge continues even if one takes enough club to get there. This is the shortest par 3 of the course and indeed, well defended.

The Seventh is a 366 yard par 4. “Eli Burn.” The pin peeks out ever so slightly from the tee, which is downhill from the tee. Only a straighter tee shot will do and the fairway widens as it moves down to Eli Burn. The burn moves across the fairway in front of the green, which means all approaches will be aerial. A trio of bunkers lines the right side of the green with its movement leaning towards them. It is rather generously sized so seize the opportunity.

The Eighth is a 509 yard par 5. “Linkhouse.” Likely a more intricately bunkered hole, a strand of them is laid out diagonally across the fairway possibly coming into play on the second shot. Six bunkers then circle around the front half of the green. The hole moves uphill and with the green on the left side, it may feel a bit like a dogleg left. The extra shot actually allows for more strategy is dealing with the uphill, wind and bunkers. The green is nicely sized once again so the golfer should strive to land on it in regulation, at all costs.

The Ninth is a 522 yard par 5. “Mizzentop.” We now move across the land once again to the coast, the top of the figure 8 if you will. And yes, back to back par 5’s. The center line bunkers off the tee essentially create two strategic scenarios. The shorter yet more treacherous left side or the safer yet longer right side. A successful tee shot to the left sets up a much shorter path in and opens up the entire width of the hole for the second shot. Those opting for the right side off the tee might be safer but calls for a much riskier second shot. A fairway bunker further up on the right comes more into play but more concerning is the left side is more liable to come into play if the shot is not as intended. The green is raised from the fairway and well defended at the front by a trio of bunkers. An overall back to front movement and with the sloped front edge, the very real possibility of the ball falling off back into the fairway.

The front nine is a dazzling duo of quirk, grace and beauty before stiffening up a bit, then a brief let up before the closing par 5’s. All of the holes are of all world caliber. My ranking of them is 2, 1, 3, 9, 5, 6, 4, 8, 7.

We pause between nines and take in the sights.

The back nine starts with the 172 yard par 3 Tenth. “Eastward Ho!” The beach is as close as ever as we tee off to the green resting slightly below. The left front corner of the green faces the tee as the hillside imparts a dominant left to right movement. This may tempt the golfer to try for the left of the green but the contours actually move away and the bunkers on that side are well below grade. The green respects shots that take dead aim and recovery shots from the right are much more favorable besides.

The Eleventh is a 549 yard par 5. “Bos’ns Locker.” The play on angles continues as the tee shot splays out inland. The golfer needs to figure out the appropriate line to the fairway while avoiding the fescue on the left and bunkers on the right. The fairway slightly bends to the left and then begins to rumple before climbing up to the green. Most of the right side of the green is lined with a bunker. Once again, we are faced with the game of angles as the golfer has a good amount of control over how they will come in to the green with their second shot. The green is positioned diagonally, almost at a 11:00 to 5:00. Things get more and more tricky the further to the rear one gets on the green and shots will not necessarily come off the high left slope as hoped for. Magnificent bastard of a par 5.

The Twelfth is a 402 yard par 4. “Bass.” The green is out of view from the tee but the configuration of bunkers explains the dogleg is to the left. The right to left movement of the green conspires with the bunkers to provide advantage to the golfer who flirts with the bunkers on the left. Those flaring to the right will face an approach to a green running away from them, like the dickens. The bunker on the right makes the tee shot even more of a conundrum since it ensures some modicum of risk with the tee shot. Mind you, this is all under consideration as the wind whips and thrashes. The green complex is terrifically brilliant while the gorgeous backdrop is beyond. A simple design relying on a few key features and the lean of the land.

The Thirteenth is a 400 yard par 4. “Pit.” Perhaps one of the flattest and straightest holes of the course and among the most memorable. Remnants of the March Dyke wall were incorporated into the hole instead of removed. This decision caused the hole to be one of the more famous and well known in the game. The tee shot is straight out with a couple bunkers on the fairway’s left side. Any shot to the left of the bunkers likely falls into the Pit, the undesirable of all undesirables. A right center teeing line provides a bit of room for the approach. The wall is snug against the green, both of which move uphill. Narrow with some depth, it is one of the smaller greens we come across. The need for precision is more challenging than the wall yet both together makes it good fun, regardless of the demands placed on the golfer.

I was at the right side of the fairway our first round and with the wind to our backs after my tee shot, a good way down. The fairway starts to slope off down and to the right in that area and I was faced with the ball well below my feet. My shot was a bit knuckly but headed towards the green weaker than I had hoped for. This caused the ball to roll before the green, which it did right through the small opening in the wall and a few feet to the pin. A member who was playing the Fifth couldn’t believe it, telling me he had never seen anyone manage to use the wall opening and get it so close. You play enough golf, the game smiles on you every now and then.

The Fourteenth is a 375 yard par 4. “Perfection.” The tee shot is completely blind but we at least know we are headed some degree left. This is the hole I mentioned above, the golfers discussing changes to the hole. The hole was indeed dramatically changed when the green was moved from before the cross bunkers to past them up on a ridge abutting the coast. The Fifteenth tee was then moved from that ridge to its current position, converting to a par 3. The tee shot needs to be hit into a small cradle of land where there are two bunkers at the far left. It must be a very exacting shot. Otherwise, the golfer will need to try and find it among the hills and it could very well be on the beach or even the Fourth green. It’s about 250 yards from tee to just before the bunkers and roughly 160 yards to the start of the fairway and 40 yards at its widest. One needs a good deal of experience with the tee shot. It is one of the idiosyncrasies of the course I’m not sure I fully embrace. The approach is also blind but there is an aiming pole beyond the two bunkers well above the fairway, signaling its location. Short grass from the top of ridge flowing all the way to the green with the sea close at hand, it is top rate. It invites an array of shots into it while providing one of the best scenes of the round with its front to back movement.

The Fifteenth is a 189 yard par 3. “Redan.” Crossing over the course to proceed down the right side the final four holes, we start with what is one of the most famous and most copied templates. Interestingly and as noted above, the Fifteenth was not always a par 3 but rather started as a 265 yard par 4. The two bunkers in view from the tee may lead the golfer tot think the green is on the other side but it is fifty yards ahead. The shot to the green is blind and must use the inevitable movement to the left, towards the large bunker resting at the lower left. There are also three bunkers at the right outer edge, ensuring there is some limit to using that right side. The putting surface is as it should be: a tilted table top. While the right to left movement is evident, the front to back movement is more inconspicuous. The original lives up to its legend and is one of the best par 3’s a golfer can find. Once again, the simple formula of accounting for the roll of the ball with positioning of features and angled tee lines makes for intelligently thrilling golf.

The Sixteenth is a 378 yard par 4. “Gate.” I’m relieved others feel the same way about this green as I. Both times, I lingered even as my group was on the next tee. Just studying it, trying to figure out how in the world one is able to keep their shot on it. It was fascinating. If one wonders just how intriguing angles can be in this game, look no further than the Sixteenth green at North Berwick. The full depth of the green seems to reveal itself the further right one comes in from the approach but yet again, the green will be moving away. Left sided approaches benefit from the green movement back towards them but will need a good deal of precision before the drop off comes in to play. The tee shot is over the wall and then one needs to mind the burn, which may come into play depending on what the wind is doing. I’d suggest exploring the ground on approach. Even the ball rolls off the edges, it should be in good position for recovery. A hole that can be played a million times and still leave the golfer without a clue. As the course website bluntly puts is, “This holes needs accuracy or luck.”

The Seventeenth is a 426 yard par 4. “Point Garry (in).” The tee shot doesn’t give much away but there’s an aiming pole far off in the distance so why not just steer there. The further left the tee shot goes the better, until it’s too far and you’re on the beach. The approach from that side is infinitely better and while there are humps and frumples, there are only two main concerns going in that direction: the beach and the larger bunker at the left center. For the more timid among us, the right side is safer but the price is a longer, much more unpredictable approach. The green is back up at the same level as the First, a semi punch bowl moving back to front. Also, all approaches are blind. It is a fun hole and even more so as the golfer learns more about it. The first dozen times, however, the golfer is likely feeling about.

The Eighteenth is a 277 yard par 4. “Home.” My home course finishes with a shorter par 4 and I have grown fond of such a finish. With the wind to our backs, the green was within reach from the tee. My first round was a weak wipe that put me off to the left but I was then able to get on the green for a par. The hole is bunker less and there is plenty of room to play with on the left side. The right side is snug with a row of parked cars, all of them very much in play. The green is raised and a small valley runs up to it. The green shape is heavily underrated but its diagonal widening actually encourages you to come in from the right. It’s a lively finisher.

The tee shot can also scar those who end up seeing their ball shift to the right and then hear the sudden metal bang. Such is the case for yours truly, whose last tee shot in Scotland was booming but with the misfortune of a couple clicks right. It felt like eternity as we lost sight of the ball then in a loud crash, a bang. We spent 20 minutes looking for the damage but could not find it. We reported it to the pro shop and rather meekly, I looked around before heading out. I would be back, some day. I’ll set it right with the finishing hole and revisit the tee shot at Perfection, green at the Sixteenth, along with the rest of it. I’ll hope for redemption but more importantly, appreciate more time learning the complex quirk and beauties strewn into the fabric of this blessed and scared land.

The back nine felt a bit more challenging and mysterious with quirk abounding. The par 4’s are one of the best sets one can hope for while every hole once again is as elite as it gets, some of which are copies the world over. In fact, my home course has versions of two holes of the back; the Redan and Pit. I would rank them 13, 15, 12, 16, 11, 17, 18, 10, 14.

The origins of our game began with the simple intention of community enjoying the land. North Berwick was one of the earliest and its evolution was with this concept in mind. Displaying its beauty, taking advantage of its natural features for layers of strategic interest and an overarching endowment of adventure. The variety of the greens crystallizes the variety of each hole within the routing, which is extraordinary in both demands and versatility. The golfer wants to play the course over and over again. To try and do better the next time, to learn more of its character and because the adventure of the round will always be exceptionally unique. The impression it has had on course architecture is invaluable. I would have been a little disappointed if I didn’t have a few qualms about the place, as it is meant to leave you a little insane. Those precious imperfections instill that individual character that hit us all differently, as it should be. Golf is a game of careful thought amongst the randomness of nature while testing the sense of humor and resolve of man, which North Berwick captures splendidly.

Clubhouse/Pro Shop: Two separate structures, the pro shop close to the First tee while the clubhouse is closer to the road. Worthy of a gander for sure.

Practice area: The driving range is in the middle of the course, within the top circle of the figure 8. Putting green is near the First tee as well.