Golfadelphia

6,589 yards, 135 slope from the Yellow tees

The trip gained steam as we started mapping out the list of courses to visit in addition to the ones included with the Old Reversed. That list changed relentlessly for an array of reasons. Length of the trip, locations, preferences, where we would stay and where we would drive; it all focused on 36 holes a day and how to achieve that at places we wanted to play. Compromises were made and some courses fell by the wayside, saved for another trip at some unknown time in the future. I was relatively flexible. There was, however, one course I would not waver on, even as I was told, then promised, it would be utterly disappointing. Grueling. Teeming with regret. I was essentially an asshole for wanting to play there. All of it was of no concern. To set foot in Scotland was to set foot on the First tee there. I had my reasons and they had nothing to do with the history of majors or championship lore tossed about. And it surely had nothing to do with the tourist trappings or checking any kind of box. Nay, the greats are great for a reason and my fascination with the place spanned over ten years. It was one of the courses I vowed to get to and my time was at hand.

Carnoustie was the only course that always stayed on the list. Configure and reconfigure the rest as you’d like but all roads will ultimately lead – to Carnoustie.

It has been quite the golf season and I have nothing to quibble about. There has simply been so much meaningful, soulful golf and a big part of that resides with my rounds in Scotland. There is always the pinnacle of any trip and some times we’re fortunate enough to realize when it’s happening. The day prior had us at the Old Course and suffice to say my heart was full. A renewed sense of adventure bristled within as I finally stepped foot on that First tee at Carnoustie. Yes I so wanted to rise to the occasion and meet the challenge of the round and yes the history of the place is intoxicating but most of all, my presence here marked a milestone I set long ago. Thankfully, I was able to watch my opening drive arch off in the distance much much sooner than I ever thought was realistic even a mere few weeks prior. And you bet your ass I rose to the occasion.

Carnoustie happens to be one of the oldest courses in the world, designed by Alan Robertson in 1840. Robertson built ten holes, which stayed that way until 1867, when Old Tom Morris extended it to eighteen holes. James Braid and Tom Simpson performed subsequent work that focused on the greens, tees and bunkers. About 45 minutes north of St. Andrews but 10 miles as the crow flies, there are no views or enchanting village nearby and the land is fairly flat. The golf is generally known to be hauntingly challenging and for sure is not known as a pleasant stroll. I could appreciate the bit of push back I got on coming here. Yet as I wrote in the yearly preview, “[A] legendary surfer once said that between living in palatial estates with unfathomable riches or a shack on the shore walking distance to a splendid break, the real surfer would pick the shack every time. [The course is] not known for the scenery or anything else really but its design. Could be my kind of place, only one way to find out”. Early on with my delving into course design and all its history and character, I read a ton of Sabino’s course reviews. His description of Carnoustie stuck with me all these years. He wrote, “Carnoustie is an enigma. It is unquestionably one of the greatest golf courses in the world but not for the usual reasons. It has none of the beautiful scenery that Pebble Beach or Turnberry has; in fact, some of the views are almost industrial and gritty. It is not set directly on the water. It does not have the storied history of a Merion or a Muirfield. It does not have a Royal pedigree or a delightful clubhouse like Hoylake or Lytham and St. Annes. In fact, it has a bit of a dis-jointed history and has been the home of many different golfing societies and local clubs over the years. Carnoustie is a public links, roughly the equivalent of a Bethpage in the U.S. And, it has an inferiority complex to its neighbor across the bay – St. Andrews.

Yet, despite all these apparent shortcomings, there is a certain charm to the place. Carnoustie is not pretending to be something it is not. It doesn’t put on any airs or try to be fancy or pretentious in any way. It deserves a high place in the world of golf because it has evolved into something great. It is pure golf.” https://top100golf.blogspot.com/2006/01/carnoustie.html

I became entranced with visiting after reading that description. Carnoustie is one of the world’s great courses for one reason only. Its design. It doesn’t even pretend to be about anything else other than extraordinary design. There are no airs of exclusivity or the rest of it. The weather will likely not be all that good. There is no reason to strip anything away because it is already done for you. You show up for the golf and when all is said and done, Carnoustie is great anyways. The point that hit home the most was that the course cannot rely on surroundings or setting as a crutch; its design must be splendid or it will be completely exposed. And that design was excellent not just because of challenge but because of strategy. This was over a decade ago but that concept has stayed with me and is certainly a cornerstone in course architecture. Surroundings and setting are secondary to the design and structure of play. The roses and sea are nice and all but what of the course.

In short, the place is a litmus test for where you fall in this game. I had a feeling I knew where I lay but might as well travel a few thousand miles to make sure.

The genius lies primarily with the variety of play, bunkering and greens. Hole direction switches constantly, which in turn changes how the wind factors in to each shot. The bunkering is marvelously placed and shaped. The turf is about as good as it gets, with two grass heights; the greens and the rest of it. The famous Barry burn meanders throughout, coming into play often. The round is constantly engaging while it is fairly easy to come undone on missed shots. The recovery character ranges from manageable with some degree of creativity to outright quicksand, where it seems to get worse and worse with each shot. Just ask Jean Van de Velde.

Indeed, Carnoustie’s championship history is as The World Atlas of Golf puts it, “as much one of tragedy as of triumph.” Van de Velde is one of several that have fallen victim to the gauntlet of the last few holes. In the 1931 Open, Jose Jurado of Argentina simply needed to finish the last two holes in nine strokes or less to best Tommy Armour for the championship but after a six on the Seventeenth and unaware that he needed a par on the last to tie because scoreboards had yet been invented, laid up short of the burn and came in with a five and unknowingly ceded. Conversely, Ben Hogan’s only Open took place at Carnoustie in 1953, where he put on a masterful display each day of the tournament for the win and was full of respect for the course as it constantly demanded his supreme effort. He did not miss a fairway the entire tournament and was the first player since Willie Park in 1860 to win the Open on his first try. Then of course there is Van de Velde, who was about to be crowned the first French Open Champion since 1907. In 1999, he was on the Eighteenth tee needing a double bogey or less to secure the championship. Unlike Jurado, Van de Velde intended to carry Barry burn from the tee but he hit it off to the right, on the Seventeenth fairway. He then tried for the green from there but hit a grandstand, which sent the ball backwards into knee high rough. He had a chance to pitch back into the fairway but instead chose to try for the green. His third shot went rather sideways, bounced over the burn before it rolled back into it. While he initially went into the burn with his pants rolled up to his knees intending to hit the ball out from there, it would have been in waist high water. He never actually hit the shot, instead accepting the penalty shot. He then hit his next shot short of the green into a bunker, then hit his best shot of the hole out of the bunker. He holed his putt for a triple bogey seven, which meant a playoff among him, Paul Lawrie and Justin Leonard. Lawrie would win the playoff. Van de Velde has always been graceful about the events at the Eighteenth and while he likely would have much preferred to be remembered for his remarkable play for the 71 holes beforehand or simply as champion golfer of the year, the tragedy that befell him at the last is the stuff of legend. For him as well as the course.

The course was even better than I was anticipating. I actually wasn’t all that sure what I was anticipating other than a round that would be tougher than it would a push over. But it was the engaging strategy that I loved. While St. Andrews was more of a finesse based strategy, Carnoustie’s strategic decisions felt more contemplative. Indeed, The World Atlas of Golf ‘s headline for the course is, “Character to test a champion’s judgment.” It just took me a long time to figure out what would be the best shot because of all the considerations. These strategic decisions are now celebrated or used as a cautionary tale as seen with some of the tales above. Carnoustie did not disappoint and deserves all of its accolades and stature. The variety of the holes and shots, as well as the amount of thought one must put into each one, was remarkably distinct and addictive. The wind was whipping from all over, which added to the adventure and thought. One feels alive at Carnoustie and the golf one plays is unmatched in many ways. It was my favorite just behind the Old yet really different course identities altogether. Other than Pine Valley, it is the one place that will conjure the best and worst shots from your game you will ever see. For me, it was one of the best rounds I played this season. Golf was becoming second nature to me at this point of the trip and the timing of this round was perfect. Alas, as with all pinnacles, there’s a coming back down and unfortunately, the wheels started to come off slowly then all at once during the subsequent rounds. But I was fine with it all. I was still content with what had come before, memories of Carnoustie dancing about. When all was said and done, it is one of my favorite golf courses of all time.

The First is a 389 yard par 4 (from the Yellow tees). “Cup.” The tall aiming post stands sentinel in the distance. The high ground is left center, which is ideal for the approach. The further one heads to the right off the tee, the more blind their approach into the green, which is hidden within a hollow in the hills. For those on the right side of the fairway, the aiming post becomes vital while those on the left should be able to decide how to go about getting close to the pin. A greenside bunker front right is hidden from view so the approach needs to get to the center of the green to be on the safe side.

The Second is a 407 yard par 4. “Gulley.” “Braid’s Bunker” resides front and center of the fairway, very much in play off the tee. It is not the only bunker out there, as others are off to the sides so that the golfer really needs to figure out how to maneuver past them. Bunkers continue up both sides near the green, which is very deep and surrounded by bunkers and mounds. Short or long is fine on the approach but by any means possible, this is not the shot to go sideways by any measure.

The Third is a 325 yard par 4. “Jockie’s Burn.” It was at this tee that I realized this place was special. Waiting for the group ahead to get through things, I pondered whether to lay up or stay with driver and where along the wide horizon of a hole to end up. The possibilities are ample and mainly focus on how to deal with the two center line bunkers. One can hit past them to the left or to the right, the side of which has less room but results in the most advantageous approach. One can hit short of them, a much more conservative tee shot that means the approach into the nervy green will be that much more precarious. The green does indeed reward shorter approaches in, which in turn places even more pressure on the tee shot. One is far from over with the hole once on the green. It moves from high right to lower left, strongly.

The Fourth is a 364 yard par 4. “Hillocks.” A dog leg right with fairway bunkers on either side. The ideal tee shot favors the left side but must avoid the deep bunker and burn running up the hole further over. Some may opt for the rough on the right side but even if the bunkers are avoided on that side, the rough makes for a challenging, heavy approach that must carry some treacherous bunkers to reach the green. This is the only double green of the course, sharing it with Fourteenth at the rear. Those pulling off the tee shot should have a nice clean approach into the deep green.

The Fifth is a 369 yard par 4. “Brae.” Another dog leg right where the golfer needs to account for Jockie’s Burn at the tee shot. The burn runs across the entirety of the fairway so the tee shot needs to either lay up or have enough to carry it. The straight tee shot runs the risk of heading into the u-shaped bunker on the left, so one must either shape the shot towards the right or select a line that moves at some angle off to the right. The approach is dominated by two raised bunkers well short of the green while those more to the left will be able to see the green and need not worry about the bunkers. The green moves back to front for the most part with bunkers at the left front and rear corners.

The Sixth is a 500 yard par 5. “Hogan’s Alley,” previously known as, “Long.” Hogan’s achievements during the 1953 Open are largely celebrated at this hole, which happens to be one of the best long holes in the game. Hogan showed his legendary ball striking prowess here by landing his tee shot between the out of bounds on the left and the bunkers, his shot landing almost in the same spot each day. The out of bounds on the left stays rigid through the green while the fairway narrows after the first wave of bunkers. Don’t forget Jockey’s Burn, which is off to the right and moves ever closer to the fairway as one proceeds closer to the green. The green is situated at the right center with rough and bunkers guarding the right side closely while the left side is more open and visible. Each shot here must be precise and thought about. There are benefits and disadvantages to every shot out there, always considering the left side out of bounds or the burn on the right.

The Seventh is a 373 yard par 4. “Plantation.” This shows just how achingly brilliant bunker placement is throughout the course. The bunkers on each side are placed to collect the roll out of tee shots which should be enough for the golfer to consider such roll out on this and every tee shot. Staying on the fairway is more important than length off the tee, so laying up short of the bunkers is a fine idea. The bunker on the right side of the green is indeed menacing but there is more than enough room to work with on the left.

The Eighth is a 157 yard par 3. “Short.” The first par 3 where a shot to the center of the green addresses many of the calamities that await short and to the sides. The left side is yet again out of bounds, the right is well bunkered and short has a formidable hollow that will reject shots unless enough heft is provided to get them well on to the green.

The Ninth is a 416 yard par 4. “Railway.” The left side is yet again purgatory while a ditch runs along a lot of the first half down the right side. Similar to the Seventh, the fairway bunkers in either side off the tee make it imperative to place the shot in the fairway and account for enough roll out. The approach should focus on the center of the green to avoid the greenside bunkers at each side. The green is large so clearing the bunkers even in exchange for a longer putt is a horse trade I would make any day of the week.

The variety of par 4’s on the front nine is staggering. There’s a lot of them, as there is only a single par 3 and 5, yet the set of nine holes is comprehensive in its challenge and brilliant in emphasizing each shot should be made with meticulous thought and craft. My ranking of them is 3, 1, 6, 4, 7, 8, 2, 5, 9 but I adored every hole.

The back nine starts with the 446 yard par 4 Tenth. “South America.” Carnoustie’s influence started with professionals and the like traveling to the U.S. and beyond, whom were involved with the design and building of earlier courses in all of these reaches. One such chap was set for South America and celebrated at his departure party a little too much. He got no further than the Tenth fairway and fell asleep at that point. Apparently that’s as far as he ever got to South America, so the hole was named in commemoration. The tee shot must stay left of the right side fairway bunkers and then the golfer must decide whether to try and carry Barry burn on the approach or lay up short, which all depends on the wind and tee shot. There’s about fifty yards between the burn and green while the left greenside bunkers bring the burn into play on the sand shot. It’s a tough approach and with the trouble stirring about near the green, one must decide things rather carefully.

The Eleventh is a 351 yard par 4. “John Philp, “formerly known as, “Dyke.” Fairway bunkers are along both sides, confining the tee shot rather well. Of course, you don’t have to worry about those if you pull your tee shot so far left you’re safely in the fescue. I some how managed to hit into one of the greenside bunkers on the next shot to save par but would not recommend that route to anyone else as a good amount of luck was involved. Two bunkers are on each side of the green as well, so the hole really wants you to keep it straight.

The Twelfth is a 407 yard par 4. “Southward Ho!” The two bunkers seen from the tee mark where the fairway narrows considerably. Two bunkers on either side before the green essentially mean to not end up short on the approach. The green widens and is possibly the widest of the course. Get the tee shot left of the bunkers and then focus on a leggy approach that lands well into the greens to clear all the bunkers and mounding before it. Easy enough. There is always the option of easing up with the approach and then relying on wedges to get close to the pin for a chance at par. Most holes on the course, including here, allow for that.

The Thirteenth is a 141 yard par 3. “Whins.” The second par 3 is a shorter par 3 that must avoid the bunkers short and both sides while anything off the rear runs the risk of entering gorse. There’s more room than it looks after the front center bunker and I’d rather the ball end up in one of the bunkers than off to the sides where you would need to carry them from a tight lie. There’s some play off to the left as well but again, the recovery demands more precision than the tee shot so just hit the damn green in the first place.

The Fourteenth is a 459 yard par 4. “Spectacles.” The famed closing sequence begins here. I don’t know how but the wind cued up at least threefold as soon as we got to this tee and it was on. Even the member hosting us got quiet and focused. Hogan’s only bogey during his final round 68 was here. One must really stay right of the bunkers on the left off the tee. Anything too far left risks running out of bounds on to the Burnside course. For those safely on the fairway, the decision must be made whether to try and carry the Spectacles or lay up short of them. With the wind furiously against us, it was an easy decision, although I had delightful visions of a flat, low yet booming hybrid piercing through the wind to the green. But wisdom won out as the host was rather adamant laying up was the only option. The green is about fifty yards after the Spectacles, a deep affair that comprises the second half of the double green with the Fourth. Just clear the large right front bunker by focusing on landing at the green’s rear center. I was probably much happier with my bogey here than Hogan.

The Fifteenth is a 437 yard par 4. “Luckyslap.” The tee shot is to a hog’s back fairway that moves primarily left to right. Favoring the left side is ideal, which shortens up the approach. The fairway zig zags more than dog legs to the left, the green sine what below grade of the fairway. The bunkers before the green narrow the short grass a good amount. If we’ve learned anything, it is that the approaches cannot be short. Long is really not appetizing either but healthy approaches into the center of the green are much more ideal than trying to feather one in. It’s a leggy par 4 with a different green, you will need to hit a couple shots and golf your ball.

The Sixteenth is a 235 yard par 3. “Barry Burn.” Tom Watson calls this the hardest par 3 in golf. The wind was howling into our face so driver was the only option which we learned is typical. Herbert Warren Wind calls the hole, “ferociously difficult. A ridge is just before the green and its entry point is on the narrow side while five bunkers litter the front spectrum of the green. The green is deep with some back to front movement and width is about after the entry point. It was one of the best pars of the season, the tee shot landing just off the green and then getting up and down from there. One can try to play short of the green but the corridor of short grass is narrow, demanding a fair amount of precision before the procession of bunkers.

The Seventeenth is a 421 yard par 4. “Island.” Barry Burn is at its most mischievous here, snaking across near the tee then moving along the left side before moving across the fairway yet again. This creates a fairway island that makes for a precarious lay up, especially because the fairway seems to lean towards the burn. One can try to carry both turns of the burn and reach the second fairway but the drive needs to be hearty and the wind cannot be against. I went for it and carried it but ended up in the rough left of the fairway. The fairway moves to the green after the burn crossing with a smattering of bunkers across the front of the green. The green is large and runs front to back for the most part. It took me minutes to figure out what to hit off the tee mainly because the first fairway seemed so tough to hit. And even if it is hit, accounting for roll needed to be rather spot on to avoid going in and even after all of that, you would be left with a rather long approach in to the green. With the wind behind us, it seemed even tougher. These are the decisions one faces in multitudes at Carnoustie. Another splendid par; was it possible I was going to get through the last three holes even?

The Eighteenth is a 421 yard par 4. “Home.” The answer would be no. I hit a booming tee shot albeit to the left and the host was fairly certain it was in the burn. He was right. The curves of the burn mean the tee shot really can’t be off in either direction too much. A trio of bunkers on the right after the burn make that side unappealing as well, so center to left center is the ideal line off the tee. Barry must be carried one more time, crossing right in front of the green. The burn is at one of its most immense points and requires a carry of about twenty feet. The green is large with bunkers on either side and the putting green off to the left. I limped away with double, one better than good old Van de Velde.

The back nine is indeed a thrilling, intense finish. The set up to them is likewise rhythmic, lulling yet preparing the golfer for the finish all at once. I would rank them 17, 18, 14, 15, 16, 10, 12, 11, 13. Again, they are all strong holes.

Carnoustie is an altar to the core traits of the game. Skill, thought, resolve and judgment are all tested and treasured here. And that’s it. Those who walk its fairways are there for the structure of play and the game of golf Carnoustie provides. When the design is examined, it is worthy of its place as one of the world’s best. The routing with its “U” shape is ingenious for the use of wind direction and angles. The bunkering is selective yet imminently effective in creating thought provoking decisions throughout the round. The quality of turf is world renown, which leads to greens and fairways that roll true. In conjunction with the burns, this comes back to strategic play in not just carrying them but not rolling into them or any other trouble for that matter. It’s a supreme battle of elements, arranged in complex fashion that forces the golfer to dig down into the depths of his abilities. The way in which it presents that challenge is sophisticated and cunning, which never defeats the golfer and instead, challenges him to try again and again which he happily will do. When the golfer walks off the Eighteenth, he undoubtedly understands the game a little more and is a better golfer in some way or another. Golf courses evoke all kinds of feelings and emotions. Some provide inspiring views, some provide relaxing seclusion while others provide a pleasant stroll through nature. Carnoustie provides an arena where the sole focus is on the game itself in one of its highest iterations possible. For the true golfer, that is the most desirable character a course can have.

Clubhouse/Pro Shop: Rather large with a nice bar and restaurant called the Rookery and the pro shop is one of the better we came across with its breadth of offerings. There is also a section displaying various artifacts and treasures showcasing its lineage.

Practice area: While there’s a driving range, it’s for members. There are a few simulators one can book to warm up while the putting green is just outside the clubhouse. While I’m fairly religious with my range sessions and emphatically prefer them to warm up before I play, for those traveling over here for golf, skip the range sessions. You’ll be playing enough golf and most often, the ranges are either a walk or short drive from the First tee, which means you’ll need to get to the club much earlier before your round.